The word "fashion" first appeared in the Ming Dynasty. How can it be regarded as "fashion" in the Ming Dynasty?

If we recall the history of the unification of the Ming Dynasty, we can’t get rid of the usual vision of "top-down" in the historical narrative of the dynasty, whether it is the praise of "Ren Xuan’s rule", the hot discussion of "Zheng He’s voyage to the West" or even the strategy of exploring the northern border defense and coastal areas. Society and culture are a continuous variant. The Ming Dynasty not only inherited the clothes of the Han and Tang Dynasties, but also rebelled against the traditional order. Whether it is the change of economic structure and political atmosphere, the acceleration of "social mobility" and its impact on the hierarchy, or the vitality and diversity of ideological culture, there are various reflections in people’s daily life, among which the folk "fashion" is a unique specimen to observe the economic and social life of the Ming Dynasty.

Since the mid-Ming dynasty, a trend of chasing "fashion" has gradually formed. This can’t help but mention two proper nouns: "fashion" and "fashion".

Judging from the existing historical data, the word "fashion" first appeared in the Ming Dynasty. What is fashion? The essay on bamboo window written by the famous monk Bian Hong in the late Ming Dynasty has the following explanation: "Today, one dress and one hat, one instrument and one thing, one word and one word, all kinds of actions, all of which are sung by one person and followed by a group, are called fashion." That is to say, the formation of fashion is usually "sung by one person", and its influence is "followed by a group", forming a regional or even national shock wave.

Essays on Bamboo Window, written by Yunqi Youhong, also known as master lianchi and Yunqi Master. He was diligent in writing and writing all his life, with a total of more than 30 kinds of works, which were compiled into Yunqi Fahui by his disciples Daxian, Li Shouyi and others, with 3 letters and 34 volumes.

Let’s talk about "one coat and one hat" first, which is obviously related to the word "current situation". In the Ming Dynasty, the style of clothes and hats of Bo Zi in the south of the Yangtze River all changed the ancient system, which was called "the style of the times". So, what was the "fashion" costume at that time? We might as well give an example to illustrate: pen tube water socks. Most of the cloth socks originally used in the Ming Dynasty were wide and tied between the knees. However, in the late Ming Dynasty, this kind of wide socks was no longer popular, but instead became popular with narrow socks. This kind of narrow socks is also called "pen tube water socks".

Looking at "one word and one language" again, we can generally examine it from two aspects: proverbs and clear words. In the south of the Yangtze River in the Ming Dynasty, the local dialect was quite popular. Two-part allegorical sayings in novels of the Ming Dynasty, such as "Shen Wansan in Nanjing, the bend of a dead tree in Beijing-the name of a person, the shadow of a tree", are obviously popular proverbs at that time, and should be "Shen Wansan in Nanjing, the willow tree in Beijing". These fashionable catchwords, originally from the song, gradually spread to ordinary people, and finally became "dressed in clothes" and began to be accepted by some literati. In addition, among the literati and scholars in the south of the Yangtze River in the Ming Dynasty, a kind of clear words was popular, which was obviously closely related to their elegant life. For example, Zhu Cunli wrote Panasonic Clear Words.

Whether it is clothes, words, or utensils, its fashion formation is usually initiated by one person, so many fashion figures appeared in the Ming Dynasty. In the Ming Dynasty, if cultural people wanted to be a fashion figure, they could only rely on their works and behaviors. If they are the initiators, and trigger a group to imitate the effect, and finally form a "fashion", then these people can be called fashion figures. In the Ming Dynasty, the only people who could truly be called fashion figures were Li Zhi (known as "Zhuo Wu"), Chen Jiru (known as "Mei Gong"), Wang Zhideng (known as "Baigu"), Yuan Huang (known as "Mr. Lefan") and You Hong (known as "master lianchi").

In the late Ming Dynasty, Suzhou and Hangzhou should be said to be the most fashionable and avant-garde cities at that time, and for this reason, they formed proprietary names such as "Su-like", "Su-Italian" and "Hangzhou style", which spread for a while and were well known to the public.

There is a common saying in the Ming Dynasty: "Suzhou is like a craftsman in Guangzhou." The so-called "Suzhou-like" still has a related new term in the Ming Dynasty, which is "Su Yi". The message behind this noun is that Suzhou has become the fashion capital of the world at that time. In the Ming Dynasty, the name of Suzhou was not the victory of man-made gardens, but the people in the city. The so-called Soviet style, Shen Hongyu, a Ming dynasty, once explained in the volume of "Gambling Organs": "The house is exquisitely decorated, and it is well displayed on several tables, with more exotic fragrance and more fine tea. When I met hanger-on, I sat and talked and laughed with a stove of cigarettes and a pot of tea. I stayed up all night in poverty, and I didn’t worry about trifles, and I didn’t export them with common sayings. This elegant flavor is worthy of Taoyuan. "

As for Su Yi, it can be cited as an example by Wu Congxian, a famous man in the Ming Dynasty, in "A Small Window for Self-discipline": "Burning incense and cooking tea has never cleared classes, but now it is wrong to say’ Su Yi’. Everything in the world is burned and cooked, and it belongs to the Soviet Union alone. If Su Fei is interested in this, it will be enjoyable. " It can be seen that the common people focus on its content, that is, practical value, while Suzhou people focus on such a form, but it is freehand brushwork, expressing an artistic conception, that is, attaching importance to its aesthetic value.

Obviously, the so-called "Su Yi" should include the following two meanings: one is the fashion of clothes, and the other is "being a man is like a man." To use today’s fashionable words is to walk in the forefront of the times and always be the trendsetter of fashion. So, what kind of talents can be regarded as "being a man with a penetrating mind"? Wu Weiye, a famous poet in the late Ming Dynasty and early Qing Dynasty, borrowed the words of Zhen Qi, a dude, to tell the basic characteristics of this life, that is, playing with antiques and trying new tea.

(The author is a professor at the School of History and Culture of Southwest University)

The original title is "Fashion of Ming People"


Source: Beijing Daily client

Author: Chen Baoliang

Producer: Liu Lizhi

Editor: Xin Yuan

Process Editor: Sun Yujie

The theme song "Burning" of the torch relay of Hangzhou Asian Games was released.

Source: WeChat WeChat official account, 19th Asian Games.










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    On September 10th, the theme song "Burning" and its MV of the torch relay of Hangzhou Asian Games were officially released.

    The torch relay is an important part of the cultural activities of the Hangzhou Asian Games, and it is also an important way to spread the Olympic spirit, publicize and promote the Asian Games, and promote the host city and the co-host city.

    On September 8, the launching ceremony of the torch relay for the Hangzhou Asian Games was held in Yongjin Park Square, Hangzhou, and it is currently being carried out in 11 cities in Zhejiang Province. As an important medium of the torch relay, the theme songs of the torch relay play an important role in enhancing the influence of the torch relay and promoting the torch relay activities.

    The theme song "Burning" released this time is composed by Pang Long and Kong Fandong, and written by Pang Long. The melody of the whole song is passionate and catchy, and the lyrics are exciting and inspiring, showing the fighting spirit in the competition; The arrangement combines light electronic music and heavy rock music, giving people a passionate feeling.

    Also released with the theme song "Burning" is the MV of this song. The performance was performed by YiBo, a young singer, actor and skateboarding promotion ambassador of China. Through the interpretation of the men’s 4× 100m relay teams in YiBo and China, the whole MV, combined with the related scenes of the torch relay of the Hangzhou Asian Games, embodies the goal of "China’s characteristics, Asian style and splendor", highlights the charm and achievements of poetry and painting in the south of the Yangtze River and the wisdom of Hangzhou, conveys the expectation of not being afraid of challenges, welcoming beauty and forging ahead together, and expresses praise for peace, unity, dream, inheritance, courage and strength, which inspires all sectors of society to be full of enthusiasm.

    Shanghai focuses on "Eight Fashion Products" and builds "Fashion Capital"

    Shanghai will focus on "Eight Fashion Products", that is, eight categories of fashion consumer goods, further strengthen the chain, build a high-quality innovative supply system, and strive to become a fashion production place, trend gathering place, innovation source and consumption leading place in 2025, and promote the scale of fashion consumer goods industry to reach 520 billion yuan.

    The Action Plan for High-quality Development of Fashion Consumer Goods Industry in Shanghai (2022-2025) (hereinafter referred to as the Action Plan) was announced yesterday, which clarified the path for Shanghai to build a "fashion capital".

    Cultivate a group of leading enterprises of billions and billions.

    Shanghai’s fashion consumer goods industry has always been profound and rich in atmosphere. "Shanghai brand" and "Shanghai goods" are well-known throughout the country and have strong capabilities in global consumption resource allocation and consumption innovation. In 2021, the scale of Shanghai’s fashion consumer goods industry reached 433.5 billion yuan, a year-on-year increase of 9.9%; The accelerated transformation and upgrading of industrial structure and the strong combination of fashion and scientific and technological advantages have laid a solid foundation for further building a "fashion capital".

    The "Eight Fashion Products" that Shanghai will focus on in the next step refer to the top products of clothing, cosmetics, exquisite food, excellent sports products, smart products, quality products of life, exquisite crafts and digital fashion products. They are not only the key areas of all kinds of first stores, first shows and first exhibitions, but also an important component of the "total retail sales of social consumer goods", an important indicator of macroeconomic operation. Statistics show that in the first 11 months of this year, the city introduced 982 first stores of various types, most of which belong to the category of "eight fashion products"; At the same time, among the total retail sales of social consumer goods in the city in 2021, "fashion eight products" accounted for over 70%. Therefore, promoting the high-quality development of fashion consumer goods industry will play an important role in building an "initial economy" ecological chain, further enriching the supply of consumer goods market and accelerating the construction of an international consumption center city.

    According to Shanghai’s new Action Plan, by 2025, we will strive to establish the status of "Fashion Capital" that leads the fashion and defines the trend, build a trillion-dollar consumer market of fashion consumer goods with demonstration and leading role, and realize an industrial scale of over 520 billion yuan, with an average annual growth rate of 5%. The Action Plan proposes that by 2025, three to five leading enterprise groups with operating income of 100 billion yuan, 20 head enterprise groups with operating income of 10 billion yuan and 200 key enterprises with operating income of 1 billion yuan will be cultivated; Construction of 10 smart factories in the fashion consumer goods industry, 100 digital application scenarios of fashion consumer goods industry characteristics, and 1,000 integration scenarios of fashion consumer goods with shopping, service and culture; We will build three to five characteristic industrial parks for fashion consumer goods, develop a number of municipal-level boutique parks and fashion creativity demonstration spaces, and form national-level industry characteristic regions and industrial clusters.

    "Ten Actions" to Enhance Core Competitiveness in an All-round Way

    In order to achieve the above goals and comprehensively enhance the overall efficiency and core competitiveness of the fashion consumer goods industry, Shanghai will implement ten major actions around three special projects in the next few years.

    In terms of "Special Project for Promoting Digital Innovation and Upgrading", Shanghai will implement "new strategic source action of scientific and technological research and development, new empowerment action of digital manufacturing, new leading action of brand building and new efficiency-enhancing action of creative design", focusing on key core technological breakthroughs and promoting the application of technologies such as digital twins in all aspects of consumer goods. In fact, digitalization will play a key role in the future development of Shanghai’s fashion consumer goods industry. Among the "Eight Fashion Products" that Shanghai focuses on, there are "smart products" mainly based on hardware and "digital fashion products" mainly based on software and service forms. The Action Plan makes it clear that Shanghai will encourage enterprises to develop virtual fashion, focusing on digital fashion, digital virtual people and personalized, high-flow and multi-interface virtual applications.

    Around the "Special Project for Optimizing and Upgrading Carrier Scenes", Shanghai will implement three actions. First of all, according to the new version of Shanghai Industrial Map, we will build a "1+9" and "Fashion Nebula" industrial space with the central city as the core and nine surrounding cities such as Pudong and Minhang, and develop three characteristic parks: Oriental Beauty Valley Beauty Park, Xinshishang Urban Industrial Park and Jiangnan Zhizao International Design Port. At the same time, a new integration action of consumption scenes will be implemented to guide enterprises to carry out the integration layout of online and offline consumption scenes. In addition, support the traditional "national tide" to upgrade with new technologies and new ideas.

    In order to build a perfect fashion ecosystem, Shanghai will also introduce and cultivate a group of leading talents in the fashion consumer goods industry, formulate the selection criteria for "Shanghai Fashion Products" and start the certification, and will also publicize and promote the overall image of "Shanghai IP" and the global new product launching place, so as to expand the industrial brand of fashion consumer goods as a whole.

    Author: Zhang Yi

    Editor: Shi Wei

    Source: vision china

    Building a country by culture | What is culture?

    About what is culture, my favorite answer is a four-sentence summary by writer Liang Xiaosheng:

    Cultivation rooted in the heart;

    Consciousness without reminding;

    Freedom based on constraints;

    Kindness for others.

    01

    May Day was brushed aside by the Liu Shishi incident.

    Judy, a flight attendant, told an interesting story about Liu Shishi at the Weibo.

    Judy often meets all kinds of big coffee and stars because she is a flight attendant and serves on the plane. But none of these big coffees and stars left a deep impression on her. Until a few days ago, she met Liu Shishi.

    On that day, Liu Shishi took the first class. When Judy went to tidy up the first class after the plane landed, she was surprised to find that the quilt on Liu Shishi’s seat was neatly folded.

    Judy was shocked at once: "In the past, all the guests in the first class rolled up their quilts and left under their feet. I didn’t expect the poems to be neatly stacked. I was so touched." 」

    People who fly first class are usually people of great status, but you see, there are so few people who fold quilts.Once in a while, the stewardess will be moved for a long time.

    02

    On May Day, I met a wandering singer when I was shopping with my mother.

    After listening to a song, I went over and threw five yuan change into the hat.

    But then, my mother’s behavior surprised me. She went to the hat, crouched down slowly, gently put two coins in the hat, and nodded to the wandering singer with a smile.

    My mother didn’t read much. But this moment: I really lost her too much.

    Comparing these things, I think of a sentence from Bai Yansong:

    "Whether a person has a culture or not does not depend on how high his educational background is. People with academic qualifications do not necessarily have culture; People without education are not necessarily uneducated. 」

    Reading a lot of books, having a high diploma, and having education are sometimes completely different.

    03

    Wu Xiao Xian told another touching story.

    Once, he followed the boss to talk about business, and at lunch, he ordered a table in the hotel. Halfway through the meal, the waiter served a special dish, and the boss said politely, "thank you, we don’t need any more dishes." 」

    The waiter explained, "This dish is free. The boss still smiled and replied: "We don’t want it for free, we can’t eat it, it’s a waste. After the meal, the boss wrapped the leftovers.

    On the way back to the company, the boss drove slowly, as if looking at something. When Wu Xiao Xian was wondering, the boss stopped the car, picked up the packed food, got off the bus and walked over to a beggar, and handed it over with his hands.

    What is culture? This is culture.

    Culture is self-cultivation rooted in the heart.

    04

    I read a story in People’s Daily.

    On the weekend, my nephew followed a Chinese to go fishing in Sydney, Australia.

    Every time you cast a net, you always get something. But every time the net is pulled up, the Chinese always pick it up and throw most of its shrimps and crabs back into the sea.

    His nephew was puzzled: "I finally hit it, why did you throw it back?" The Chinese replied, "Only fish and shrimp that meet the specified size can be caught. 」

    His nephew said, "You are far away on the high seas, and no one can care about you."? The Chinese smiled faintly: "Not everything needs to be reminded and urged by others! 」

    What is culture? This is culture. Culture is consciousness without reminding.

    05

    What is freedom?

    Many people’s understanding is that freedom is to let yourself do what you want freely. But people who think like this don’t know what real freedom is.

    Linda, a Chinese-American writer, wrote a book "Worry in the Deep History", which presents the fact that the United States is not only the freest country in the world, but also the least free country in the world.

    On one occasion, he accompanied his friends from China to visit the Grand Canyon of the United States.

    My friend picked up the coke can and wanted to throw it into the grand canyon: "What a pity not to do something in such a deep canyon! Linda was shocked and quickly stopped: "This is illegal. "The world’s freest America, in fact, is full of freedom:

    It is illegal to hold an open bottle in the street.

    It is illegal for parents to slap their children when they cry.

    Even telling dirty jokes in the office is illegal.

    ….. Many people in China don’t understand why the United States has so many constraints. In fact, it is precisely because of so many constraints that American freedom has been created.

    The philosopher Mill said, "Constraints are the mother of freedom. Personal freedom must be based on not infringing on the freedom of others. 」

    What is culture? This is culture. Culture is freedom based on constraints.

    06

    There was once a wise man who taught his disciples to break glass products and put them into garbage bags, and wrote on them with a pen: "There are glass fragments inside, which are dangerous!" In this way, people who pick up garbage won’t scratch their fingers.

    The mineral water bottles after drinking drinks are also emptied and tightened, which is convenient for waste recyclers to collect.

    You ask me what is culture? This is culture. Culture is kindness for others.

    When you go to the toilet, think of the next person who goes to the toilet.

    When throwing garbage, think of the next garbage collector.

    ……No matter what you do, you must think of the next person.

    07

    Xia Yan, a dramatist, was in great pain before he died. The secretary said, "I’ll call the doctor. "Just as he was about to open the door, Xia Yan opened his eyes and said with difficulty," No, please. Then he passed out and never woke up.

    "Not call, please. "Xia Lao changed a word, but moved a building.

    Do you know how Liang Qichao died?

    He died in a medical accident at Union Medical College Hospital: the doctor cut the left kidney that should have been removed into the right kidney.

    Before he died, Liang Qichao did not curse the doctor, but told his family: "Never tell the media or publish it. The people have just begun to believe in western medicine, and if they know about me, they will inevitably retreat. 」

    Xia Lao Liang Lao is the truly literate person.A true cultural person should have four qualities:

    Cultivation rooted in the heart; Consciousness without reminding; Freedom based on constraints; Kindness for others.

    Think about how often we can have conscious introspection without being reminded by others, and we can think of and help others as much as possible.


    The pictures and texts come from the Internet, and the copyright belongs to the author.

    Delete if there is any copyright contact.

    What should we pay attention to when playing badminton well?

    Badminton is a sport that many people like, because it can exercise their bodies, and it is also a way to entertain themselves at ordinary times. But many times, we will find that some people often get injured when playing badminton, especially if they don’t pay attention to hand change or back retrogression, they may strain their ligaments. So what problems do you need to pay attention to if you want to play badminton well?

    In fact, not only do we play badminton and do all kinds of physical exercises, but we should also pay attention to the fact that if we don’t pay attention to some small details, it will easily bring harm to our health, so I hope everyone can pay attention to these problems during the exercise.

    1. Wrist: This is the most critical part of badminton hitting. According to the standard power action, the wrist should bear the force of forearm internal and external rotation, which is similar to the force when unscrewing the lid of a teacup. If your wrist hurts after exercise, it’s probably because your wrist bears the force in the wrong direction, such as when you twist the throttle of a motorcycle. The muscles of the wrist are stretched by violence, resulting in pain. Please remember the correct power action, the wrist should be rotating, not feeling overstretched.

    2, forearm and elbow: When hitting the ball, it mainly depends on the contraction of forearm and elbow muscle groups, resulting in the strength of internal and external rotation.

    3, big arms and shoulders: First, when exerting force, we should make full use of the waist and abdomen strength, and rely solely on the shoulder muscles to forcibly drive the arm to swing; The second is to let the arm swing naturally after hitting the ball, instead of forcibly braking the arm with the contraction of the shoulder muscles.

    4, waist and back: often when the movement is not in place, it is forced to exert force when it is in an excessive backward or lateral twisting state. This causes the muscles of the back to contract forcibly in a twisted state, which is easy to cause strain pain.

    5. Hips and thighs: The muscles in this part are relatively thick and strong. If there is abnormal pain, it may be that the return movement after striding to save the ball is incorrect. Generally, after striding to save the ball, do you habitually keep your feet in a big lunge, and force your body to stand straight quickly with one leg in front of you? In this state, because people’s center of gravity is extremely forward, they basically rely on the unilateral gluteus maximus and triceps femoris to contract violently, so that the center of gravity rises until it returns to its original position.

    The above is an introduction to the problems that need to be paid attention to by the beautiful woman Maoqiao. I hope that through these introductions, everyone can pay more attention to it in daily life. If you want to exercise better and enhance your body’s immunity, then these details can never be ignored during the exercise, which will bring more adverse effects to yourself first.

    Copyright statement: the picture and text are irrelevant, and this article is reproduced for the purpose of transmitting more information. If the source is marked incorrectly or infringes on your legitimate rights and interests, please contact this website with the ownership certificate, and we will correct and delete it in time. Thank you.

    In the post-growth era, China Beauty has played a "technology card"

    Image source @ vision china

    Wen | New Consumption of Tide Watching, Author | Xinyi, Editor | Eucommia ulmoides Oliv.

    In recent years, China’s beauty industry has ushered in Shuang Sheng in scale and growth rate, which is an important evidence of the rise of "national tide".

    As for the important factors that lead to the rapid rise of many new domestic beauty products in the past few years, based on the supply side, domestic beauty suppliers have served international brands for many years and have accumulated enough experience in technology and mode, and the efficiency of China’s beauty supply chain is leading the world.

    Based on the consumption side, the economic situation of the new generation of consumers has improved qualitatively compared with the previous generation, and they also have more time and energy to study and invest in the "beautiful cause".

    This is the big background.

    Besides, there is a rare opportunity that belongs to China’s beauty industry, which we call the "functional/ingredient era".

    When a beauty manufacturer shared it before, it was mentioned that the so-called "function/component" concept was not put forward by a professional research institution in an industry or a so-called core enterprise with the right to speak in the industry, but a concept put forward by the market.

    That is to say, consumers "force" the beauty industry to continuously deepen their understanding of functions/ingredients based on their emphasis on functions/ingredients. We seem to have seen the arrival of the "era of consumer sovereignty".

    How did this era come about?

    We believe that on the one hand, technology itself is improving. People’s pursuit of beauty and health is engraved in their genes, so that the beauty industry has been cracking the password of "eternal youth" through technological innovation for so many years.

    With the efforts of the R&D end, the proven more effective raw materials and processes will replace the previous solutions. For example, if we lengthen the time line, we can see that China’s beauty has evolved into a functional era step by step, and the core driving force must be the technology itself.

    Source: Fengrui Capital

    On the other hand, the era of efficacy has become an industry consensus, and it also depends on the rise of social media and corresponding digital means.

    With the help of developed information channels, "rich and leisure" consumers have established an unprecedented understanding of beauty products and even the industry. They know exactly what they need and are more capable of judging truly valuable solutions.

    Functions/ingredients based on advanced technical capabilities have also become the most recognized beauty concept in the market with the help of new channels.

    With the help of new channels and new marketing, an unprecedented high-efficiency bridge has been built between brands and consumer markets, and the efficiency of product market verification has been greatly improved.

    Based on the above background, it is not difficult for us to understand the significance of today’s technology to the beauty industry in China. We will also start to sort out and show the scientific and technological innovation of China’s beauty industry around the key words of science and technology.

    From the beginning of research and development to the terminal-oriented, the beauty industry relies more and more on scientific and technological strength in each core link. Based on market observation, we summarize the current mainstream technological innovation methods in each link.

    • The research and development end is mainly the technological innovation of raw materials and processes. From the perspective of raw materials, more and more "local raw materials" are attracting market attention;

    • In the field of packaging, environmentally-friendly packaging materials driven by the concept of sustainable development are becoming the focus of the field. In addition, the technological innovation of packaging is also directly empowering the product itself. For example, through special packaging to maintain the activity of ingredients, reduce the emulsification reaction that may lead to allergies, reduce the irritation of some ingredients, and help control the proportion of ingredients to achieve the best results;

    • At the channel level, no matter which channel the brand is exerting its strength with traffic bonus, digitalization is a technological innovation link that cannot be avoided by reducing costs, improving quality and increasing efficiency. Building a new "people and goods yard" through digitalization is always the goal to be achieved in the process of channel reform;

    • The same is true in marketing. Digitalization makes the connection between channel marketing closer and closer, thus creating an increasingly smooth sales link for the brand. Nowadays, digital marketing tools have almost become the standard of beauty brands, and the essence of tools is to serve efficiency. What we often call "user thinking" is essentially a more efficient content model that links the market.

    Here we also show the full-link technology empowerment in the field of beauty through some cases.

    In the field of R&D, Galand Group, the parent company of Nature Hall, mainly promotes a kind of "indigenous component", a microbial strain in the Himalayas, which is also a component of the cooperation between Galand and Chinese Academy of Sciences in microbial research.

    Now, this ingredient with "anti-oxidation" function has practical product application, and now it is also one of the star products of Nature Hall.

    Another typical case of process innovation comes from Zhiben.

    No matter how good the ingredients are, if they are not absorbed, the effect will be discounted. Today, an important technological innovation direction in the field of beauty cosmetics is actually to solve the problem of how functional ingredients are used by the human body.

    The present technology is called "artificial exosome delivery technology", which can effectively absorb extracellular active ingredients by activating cells and increase the efficacy of the ingredients themselves.

    There are also corresponding products on the market.

    In the field of packaging, Runbaiyan’s packaging is more representative on the level of sustainable development. At the same time, it has a strong sense of design and recognition, and tells the brand concept through product packaging.

    Regarding the following channels and marketing digitalization, here is a marketing link.

    Between planting grass and pulling grass, there is also a link to raise grass, which is also a link to open up online and offline, public and private domains through data, improve the quality of marketing reach in an all-round way, and increase consumer experience.

    It shows that in addition to some direct efficiency transformation, we should also add more indirect content to give marketing content and emotional value. And our current digital tools and solutions are indeed more and more intelligent, so high that we can achieve continuous optimization of content through accurate consumer analysis.

    The influence of science and technology on the field of beauty is increasing, and this cognition is also reflected in the business process of industries and enterprises through data.

    First of all, the proportion of R&D expenses of head beauty enterprises in total revenue has gradually increased in the past three years. Huaxi Bio and Betani are outstanding, with R&D expenses accounting for more than 5% in the past year.

    Moreover, not only domestic beauty cosmetics are following the era of technological beauty led by efficacy skin care, but now many foreign brands are also highlighting their scientific research strength and related achievements, fully catering to the efficacy wave.

    We have observed that the overall trend in the field of beauty today has changed from "volume marketing" to "volume channel" to "volume research and development" and "volume efficiency".

    Show you some typical cases that everyone is familiar with-

    The first is Huaxi Bio, which started from the research and development of raw materials. Before that, it was more of a core supply chain enterprise serving the B-end such as medical care and medical beauty. Later, the advantages of raw material research and development and channel funds were expanded, and the beauty brand matrix was developed to play the C-end market and gradually become a terminal brand enterprise; Now Huaxi Bio is a veritable beauty industry chain group enterprise.

    Bettini also takes the whole chain route, starting from the conservation planting at the source, integrating R&D and production of brands; Now the product system covers cosmetics and medical devices, and continues to expand in the field of beauty.

    These two cases are more focused on the field of skin care products. Cosmetic companies, which have always been regarded as not paying much attention to R&D, are actually gradually consciously raising the threshold of product competition with scientific and technological investment-the parent companies of Perfect Diary and Huaxizi now have their own R&D centers, or do research and development of products with technical content through cooperation with authoritative scientific research institutions.

    The direction involved is also inseparable from products and processes. Now many make-up brands are also improving the safety of their products through "local raw materials", creating brand recognition, and even giving make-up products the efficacy of nourishing skin.

    Including now, many make-up brands are also making efforts in the field of base makeup, which requires higher research and development, and establishing their own moat through products with thresholds.

    Finally, through a table, I will show you the R&D, construction and related trends of new domestic beauty brands on the market.

    Just now, we mentioned that mainstream beauty companies on the market are making efforts in research and development, and also listed relevant data, but in fact, it is difficult for each industry to set a perfect absolute value for R&D investment.

    However, the gradual upward trend itself will reflect the positive correlation between R&D investment and the market value of the brand. I believe that it is precisely because of this that the brand has the incentive to continuously increase the price in science and technology.

    In the next part, we take this view and show the beauty technology and product direction with high market recognition through some specific cases.

    Let me give you a general picture first. This is the main positioning and concept of domestic beauty head brands (including listed companies and cutting-edge brands). Obviously, we can see the weight of scientific research on brands now.

    Source: business staff liquid essence category seven-day product ranking

    In addition, we also found that more and more products will directly write the ingredients when optimizing the platform keyword search, which actually reflects that consumers’ understanding of beauty technology has reached a certain height today.

    Then look at some specific cases-

    The first one is hyaluronic acid, represented by "Huaxi School". Here is a direct example of Runbaiyan.

    Since its debut, Runbaiyan has been deeply cultivating hyaluronic acid by relying on Huaxi Bio. This year, it directly expressed its brand positioning as "hyaluronic acid technology repair aesthetics", focusing on precise repair of surface, middle and bottom layers.

    We also briefly summarized the launch of Runbaiyan on various platforms and the brand word cloud based on the launch, and found that the whole play and positioning of Runbaiyan have a high degree of overlap.

    Of course, the core of brand marketing is products. In particular, the brand matrix of Huaxi Bio has always emphasized the concept of "big single product" and advocated that the whole series should be driven by big single product.

    Let’s take another example that obviously adopts component positioning, which can be beautiful.

    The human-like collagen of giant creatures has a very high reputation in the industrial circle, and it has been named as the original ingredient of China. When doing brand operation, it is also the idea of "core ingredients+efficacy output+big single product". That is, "recombinant collagen+fragile muscle repair+mask, second throw, collagen stick".

    We also pulled some data from mainstream platforms to show the product line and sales of Fumei.

    The third case is Ximuyuan, which takes the component route.

    When Ximuyuan was first recognized by the market, it was also inseparable from ingredients, but industrial cannabis and medicinal Phellinus linteus finally went wrong for various subjective and objective reasons.

    However, Ximuyuan has been building its brand around natural ingredients, and now it mainly promotes the product lines of camellia and cherry blossoms. In fact, camellia is not originated by Ximuyuan, but it does not hinder the positive effect of this ingredient on the brand.

    At present, Ximuyuan combines the concept of natural ingredients with urban life from positioning to marketing, which is also the ideological trend that cutting-edge consumer brands in China will generally graft.

    Let’s talk about a domestic brand PMPM.

    The big move of PMPM this year is to set up a global skin care research expert committee, with the core purpose of "providing solutions to skin problems for consumers in China". The brand has always wanted to promote the concept of "formula", and the formula represents the collection of ingredients and technology.

    This is also a case where the brand’s hard scientific research strength is directly presented at the market level.

    Finally, I will share this report and show the possible trends from the perspective of our industry.

    First, the beauty and skin care industry has entered the era of "strong supervision". No matter which industry will pay special attention to policy orientation and industry rules, beauty is actually an industry with a high customer complaint rate, and the impact of policies on brand enterprises is very obvious.

    Judging from the adjustment of filing rules in recent years, it can be clearly found that the supervision of the beauty industry has become stricter. Some products can no longer use the expression of "medical" in publicity, which actually puts forward higher requirements for the brand’s product strength.

    Since we are in the age of efficacy and benefit from it, we should not abuse it.

    Otherwise, the effect will also fail.

    Second, synthetic biology: reconstructing the next password of the beauty industry. Brands need to pay attention to some important scientific and technological innovation trends. From the feedback from the current investment market and the mainstream research and development direction of the industry, we conclude that synthetic biology is a research direction that is more concerned in the field of beauty.

    Moreover, synthetic biology is also a direction in which China has the first-Mover advantage. At present, China’s synthetic biotechnology is comparable to the international mainstream level, and even in a leading position in some biotechnology fields.

    Third, the capital market prefers biotechnology. Take a look at the signals sent by investment institutions. The first is the attention to the field of synthetic biology; Secondly, many investment institutions will favor the proven ingredients and efficacy to increase the certainty of investment; In addition, there are still opportunities for breakthroughs and innovations in sub-populations, scenarios and needs.

    Finally, deep brand differentiation based on scientific research and development is the foundation for brand enterprises to impress investors and always stand in the market.

    The next three trends are all related to channels and marketing.

    Fourth, the development of offline channels has brought new growth points to the beauty industry.

    Since the beginning of this year, many beauty brands have begun to work offline. In fact, going offline is the only way for brands to expand their channels. When everyone quickly starts online, whether they have reached the traffic ceiling or not, they will naturally extend offline, because offline service and experience are the core values of beauty brands.

    Of course, today’s offline channels need to be upgraded on the basis of traditional shelf thinking, so that offline can become a scene with strong content, multifunction and more experience, which can effectively promote purchase decisions and enhance purchase intentions.

    Here, people are no longer simple consumers, but change to accurate consumers; In contrast, brands need to use this scenario to provide more accurate products and services.

    And with the empowerment of technology, online and offline will be opened up, resulting in sales linkage. In the future, omni-channel digital empowerment of retail+service+technology+experience is the only way.

    Fifth, lay out private domain e-commerce and establish its own digital user assets.

    Like the logic under the wire, the public domain leads to the private domain, which is an inevitable brand logic. Under the combined effect of the expensive public domain traffic, limited repurchase rate and emerging platforms and traffic dividends, private domain has almost become the standard for brands to maintain long-term growth.

    Moreover, private domain is a channel strategy with compound interest, and the later it is, the higher the production ratio will be, which is also the application meaning of stickiness and repurchase.

    Sixth, content innovation is the primary productivity of online marketing of beauty products.

    We emphasize that no matter what kind of channels and marketing actions we do, everyone’s requirements for content must be getting higher and higher. The good live performance of Xiaohongshu this year actually confirms the effect of previous content accumulation, and the trust generated by high-quality content in the consumer market has been recognized and highlighted in the form of sales data.

    We also advocate that today’s brand enterprises will no longer roughly divide their business into two categories, such as online and offline, public domain and private domain, but focus more on understanding and observing people and refining effective content for real people.

    Insight into the output content, content construction experience, experience produces stickiness, and stickiness produces long-term purchasing power; With the help of content and market links, brands will generate new insights under the continuous benign interaction, thus serving the upgrading iteration of the whole business process such as technology, products, content, channels and marketing, and finally making the business form an "organism".

    This is a process that takes content as the core driving force and constantly realizes the flywheel of brand growth in the positive cycle.

    Seventh, finally, pay attention to a trend, and custom beauty has sprung up everywhere.

    Customization is almost a foreseeable end point of all consumption, and customized service reflects the highest degree of respect for consumers. It also reflects the market’s pursuit of in-depth and high-quality services.

    It is not easy to find a suitable product and service solution in the vast amount of information. From the industry to the market, people are looking for the next hot trend.

    In fact, what is popular is not necessarily suitable.

    Of course, thousands of people need not only the input of product technology, the deepening of market education and cognition, but also the more universal and customized solutions that cater to the consumption power of the masses.