The word "fashion" first appeared in the Ming Dynasty. How can it be regarded as "fashion" in the Ming Dynasty?

If we recall the history of the unification of the Ming Dynasty, we can’t get rid of the usual vision of "top-down" in the historical narrative of the dynasty, whether it is the praise of "Ren Xuan’s rule", the hot discussion of "Zheng He’s voyage to the West" or even the strategy of exploring the northern border defense and coastal areas. Society and culture are a continuous variant. The Ming Dynasty not only inherited the clothes of the Han and Tang Dynasties, but also rebelled against the traditional order. Whether it is the change of economic structure and political atmosphere, the acceleration of "social mobility" and its impact on the hierarchy, or the vitality and diversity of ideological culture, there are various reflections in people’s daily life, among which the folk "fashion" is a unique specimen to observe the economic and social life of the Ming Dynasty.

Since the mid-Ming dynasty, a trend of chasing "fashion" has gradually formed. This can’t help but mention two proper nouns: "fashion" and "fashion".

Judging from the existing historical data, the word "fashion" first appeared in the Ming Dynasty. What is fashion? The essay on bamboo window written by the famous monk Bian Hong in the late Ming Dynasty has the following explanation: "Today, one dress and one hat, one instrument and one thing, one word and one word, all kinds of actions, all of which are sung by one person and followed by a group, are called fashion." That is to say, the formation of fashion is usually "sung by one person", and its influence is "followed by a group", forming a regional or even national shock wave.

Essays on Bamboo Window, written by Yunqi Youhong, also known as master lianchi and Yunqi Master. He was diligent in writing and writing all his life, with a total of more than 30 kinds of works, which were compiled into Yunqi Fahui by his disciples Daxian, Li Shouyi and others, with 3 letters and 34 volumes.

Let’s talk about "one coat and one hat" first, which is obviously related to the word "current situation". In the Ming Dynasty, the style of clothes and hats of Bo Zi in the south of the Yangtze River all changed the ancient system, which was called "the style of the times". So, what was the "fashion" costume at that time? We might as well give an example to illustrate: pen tube water socks. Most of the cloth socks originally used in the Ming Dynasty were wide and tied between the knees. However, in the late Ming Dynasty, this kind of wide socks was no longer popular, but instead became popular with narrow socks. This kind of narrow socks is also called "pen tube water socks".

Looking at "one word and one language" again, we can generally examine it from two aspects: proverbs and clear words. In the south of the Yangtze River in the Ming Dynasty, the local dialect was quite popular. Two-part allegorical sayings in novels of the Ming Dynasty, such as "Shen Wansan in Nanjing, the bend of a dead tree in Beijing-the name of a person, the shadow of a tree", are obviously popular proverbs at that time, and should be "Shen Wansan in Nanjing, the willow tree in Beijing". These fashionable catchwords, originally from the song, gradually spread to ordinary people, and finally became "dressed in clothes" and began to be accepted by some literati. In addition, among the literati and scholars in the south of the Yangtze River in the Ming Dynasty, a kind of clear words was popular, which was obviously closely related to their elegant life. For example, Zhu Cunli wrote Panasonic Clear Words.

Whether it is clothes, words, or utensils, its fashion formation is usually initiated by one person, so many fashion figures appeared in the Ming Dynasty. In the Ming Dynasty, if cultural people wanted to be a fashion figure, they could only rely on their works and behaviors. If they are the initiators, and trigger a group to imitate the effect, and finally form a "fashion", then these people can be called fashion figures. In the Ming Dynasty, the only people who could truly be called fashion figures were Li Zhi (known as "Zhuo Wu"), Chen Jiru (known as "Mei Gong"), Wang Zhideng (known as "Baigu"), Yuan Huang (known as "Mr. Lefan") and You Hong (known as "master lianchi").

In the late Ming Dynasty, Suzhou and Hangzhou should be said to be the most fashionable and avant-garde cities at that time, and for this reason, they formed proprietary names such as "Su-like", "Su-Italian" and "Hangzhou style", which spread for a while and were well known to the public.

There is a common saying in the Ming Dynasty: "Suzhou is like a craftsman in Guangzhou." The so-called "Suzhou-like" still has a related new term in the Ming Dynasty, which is "Su Yi". The message behind this noun is that Suzhou has become the fashion capital of the world at that time. In the Ming Dynasty, the name of Suzhou was not the victory of man-made gardens, but the people in the city. The so-called Soviet style, Shen Hongyu, a Ming dynasty, once explained in the volume of "Gambling Organs": "The house is exquisitely decorated, and it is well displayed on several tables, with more exotic fragrance and more fine tea. When I met hanger-on, I sat and talked and laughed with a stove of cigarettes and a pot of tea. I stayed up all night in poverty, and I didn’t worry about trifles, and I didn’t export them with common sayings. This elegant flavor is worthy of Taoyuan. "

As for Su Yi, it can be cited as an example by Wu Congxian, a famous man in the Ming Dynasty, in "A Small Window for Self-discipline": "Burning incense and cooking tea has never cleared classes, but now it is wrong to say’ Su Yi’. Everything in the world is burned and cooked, and it belongs to the Soviet Union alone. If Su Fei is interested in this, it will be enjoyable. " It can be seen that the common people focus on its content, that is, practical value, while Suzhou people focus on such a form, but it is freehand brushwork, expressing an artistic conception, that is, attaching importance to its aesthetic value.

Obviously, the so-called "Su Yi" should include the following two meanings: one is the fashion of clothes, and the other is "being a man is like a man." To use today’s fashionable words is to walk in the forefront of the times and always be the trendsetter of fashion. So, what kind of talents can be regarded as "being a man with a penetrating mind"? Wu Weiye, a famous poet in the late Ming Dynasty and early Qing Dynasty, borrowed the words of Zhen Qi, a dude, to tell the basic characteristics of this life, that is, playing with antiques and trying new tea.

(The author is a professor at the School of History and Culture of Southwest University)

The original title is "Fashion of Ming People"


Source: Beijing Daily client

Author: Chen Baoliang

Producer: Liu Lizhi

Editor: Xin Yuan

Process Editor: Sun Yujie

The theme song "Burning" of the torch relay of Hangzhou Asian Games was released.

Source: WeChat WeChat official account, 19th Asian Games.










rebroadcast



broadcast


00:00
/
00:00
live-streaming





00:00




Enter full screen


50






    Click and hold to drag the video.

    On September 10th, the theme song "Burning" and its MV of the torch relay of Hangzhou Asian Games were officially released.

    The torch relay is an important part of the cultural activities of the Hangzhou Asian Games, and it is also an important way to spread the Olympic spirit, publicize and promote the Asian Games, and promote the host city and the co-host city.

    On September 8, the launching ceremony of the torch relay for the Hangzhou Asian Games was held in Yongjin Park Square, Hangzhou, and it is currently being carried out in 11 cities in Zhejiang Province. As an important medium of the torch relay, the theme songs of the torch relay play an important role in enhancing the influence of the torch relay and promoting the torch relay activities.

    The theme song "Burning" released this time is composed by Pang Long and Kong Fandong, and written by Pang Long. The melody of the whole song is passionate and catchy, and the lyrics are exciting and inspiring, showing the fighting spirit in the competition; The arrangement combines light electronic music and heavy rock music, giving people a passionate feeling.

    Also released with the theme song "Burning" is the MV of this song. The performance was performed by YiBo, a young singer, actor and skateboarding promotion ambassador of China. Through the interpretation of the men’s 4× 100m relay teams in YiBo and China, the whole MV, combined with the related scenes of the torch relay of the Hangzhou Asian Games, embodies the goal of "China’s characteristics, Asian style and splendor", highlights the charm and achievements of poetry and painting in the south of the Yangtze River and the wisdom of Hangzhou, conveys the expectation of not being afraid of challenges, welcoming beauty and forging ahead together, and expresses praise for peace, unity, dream, inheritance, courage and strength, which inspires all sectors of society to be full of enthusiasm.

    Young man, the first car! Xiaomi applied for the first automobile SU7 trademark: the price starts from 190,000 yuan.

    On December 1 ST, according to the website of Tianyancha,Xiaomi Technology Co., Ltd. applied for registration of the trademark "XIAOMI SU7" on November 15th, 2023, which is classified as fitness equipment internationally, and it is still in the stage of substantive examination.

    Source: Tianyancha

    In the latest batch of new car declaration catalogue published by the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology last month, Xiaomi SU7, the first model of Xiaomi Automobile, officially completed the declaration, and it is expected to be listed in 2024. Once the news came out, it immediately set off a discussion upsurge on the Internet. Both rims and non-rims were very interested in Xiaomi’s car-making, and launched a round of discussion around its exposed appearance parameters. The heat can be said to be the same for a while.

    Subsequently, more specific model information of Xiaomi Automobile was exposed.It is reported that the first model of Xiaomi Automobile is divided into four versions, namely, the standard version, the Pro version, the Max version, and the track version that is not sold in batches. The price range is concentrated in 190,000-300,000 yuan.The production capacity of Xiaomi Automobile in the first year is less than 70,000 units, and the first batch of cars will be sold in first-and second-tier cities first.

    The span of the price range of 190,000-300,000 yuan is not small. It seems that Xiaomi still wants to make a fuss about the configuration of different models. Lei guessed that the price of the standard version may be 190,000 yuan, which is mainly used to lower the threshold for users to start and attract more prospective car owners who are still waiting to see. Pro and Max versions are divided into different versions through differences in intelligent driving and battery life. As for the track version, because of its characteristics of not mass production and sales, I believe it must be prepared for the most loyal rice noodles.

    Source: Ministry of Industry and Information Technology

    In addition to the full vehicle configuration, the car system and intelligent cockpit are undoubtedly the biggest selling points of Xiaomi SU7.With the 澎湃 OS system released this year, it is very exciting to see how far the interaction between people, mobile phones and cars can go. In terms of intelligent driving, although we still don’t know the relevant information, as the first model of Xiaomi Automobile, I believe that Xiaomi definitely wants to make the first shot, and the configuration will not disappoint everyone.

    Lu Weibing, president of Xiaomi Group, once said that the progress of Xiaomi Automobile has exceeded expectations, and the mass production target will remain unchanged in the first half of next year, followed by the second winter test. According to the information released by the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology, the name of the two new models of Xiaomi Automobile is Beijing Automotive Group Off-road Vehicle Co., Ltd., which also means that BAIC will become the OEM of Xiaomi Automobile. With the help of BAIC, the production capacity of Xiaomi Automobile is believed to be not too big. problem.

    According to the latest news,At the end of December this year, Xiaomi Automobile will hold a technical conference, at which time everyone can fully understand all the information of Xiaomi SU7. The question is, if you can start with Xiaomi SU7 for 190,000 yuan, will you consider it?

    Cover source: Ministry of Industry and Information Technology

    Shanghai focuses on "Eight Fashion Products" and builds "Fashion Capital"

    Shanghai will focus on "Eight Fashion Products", that is, eight categories of fashion consumer goods, further strengthen the chain, build a high-quality innovative supply system, and strive to become a fashion production place, trend gathering place, innovation source and consumption leading place in 2025, and promote the scale of fashion consumer goods industry to reach 520 billion yuan.

    The Action Plan for High-quality Development of Fashion Consumer Goods Industry in Shanghai (2022-2025) (hereinafter referred to as the Action Plan) was announced yesterday, which clarified the path for Shanghai to build a "fashion capital".

    Cultivate a group of leading enterprises of billions and billions.

    Shanghai’s fashion consumer goods industry has always been profound and rich in atmosphere. "Shanghai brand" and "Shanghai goods" are well-known throughout the country and have strong capabilities in global consumption resource allocation and consumption innovation. In 2021, the scale of Shanghai’s fashion consumer goods industry reached 433.5 billion yuan, a year-on-year increase of 9.9%; The accelerated transformation and upgrading of industrial structure and the strong combination of fashion and scientific and technological advantages have laid a solid foundation for further building a "fashion capital".

    The "Eight Fashion Products" that Shanghai will focus on in the next step refer to the top products of clothing, cosmetics, exquisite food, excellent sports products, smart products, quality products of life, exquisite crafts and digital fashion products. They are not only the key areas of all kinds of first stores, first shows and first exhibitions, but also an important component of the "total retail sales of social consumer goods", an important indicator of macroeconomic operation. Statistics show that in the first 11 months of this year, the city introduced 982 first stores of various types, most of which belong to the category of "eight fashion products"; At the same time, among the total retail sales of social consumer goods in the city in 2021, "fashion eight products" accounted for over 70%. Therefore, promoting the high-quality development of fashion consumer goods industry will play an important role in building an "initial economy" ecological chain, further enriching the supply of consumer goods market and accelerating the construction of an international consumption center city.

    According to Shanghai’s new Action Plan, by 2025, we will strive to establish the status of "Fashion Capital" that leads the fashion and defines the trend, build a trillion-dollar consumer market of fashion consumer goods with demonstration and leading role, and realize an industrial scale of over 520 billion yuan, with an average annual growth rate of 5%. The Action Plan proposes that by 2025, three to five leading enterprise groups with operating income of 100 billion yuan, 20 head enterprise groups with operating income of 10 billion yuan and 200 key enterprises with operating income of 1 billion yuan will be cultivated; Construction of 10 smart factories in the fashion consumer goods industry, 100 digital application scenarios of fashion consumer goods industry characteristics, and 1,000 integration scenarios of fashion consumer goods with shopping, service and culture; We will build three to five characteristic industrial parks for fashion consumer goods, develop a number of municipal-level boutique parks and fashion creativity demonstration spaces, and form national-level industry characteristic regions and industrial clusters.

    "Ten Actions" to Enhance Core Competitiveness in an All-round Way

    In order to achieve the above goals and comprehensively enhance the overall efficiency and core competitiveness of the fashion consumer goods industry, Shanghai will implement ten major actions around three special projects in the next few years.

    In terms of "Special Project for Promoting Digital Innovation and Upgrading", Shanghai will implement "new strategic source action of scientific and technological research and development, new empowerment action of digital manufacturing, new leading action of brand building and new efficiency-enhancing action of creative design", focusing on key core technological breakthroughs and promoting the application of technologies such as digital twins in all aspects of consumer goods. In fact, digitalization will play a key role in the future development of Shanghai’s fashion consumer goods industry. Among the "Eight Fashion Products" that Shanghai focuses on, there are "smart products" mainly based on hardware and "digital fashion products" mainly based on software and service forms. The Action Plan makes it clear that Shanghai will encourage enterprises to develop virtual fashion, focusing on digital fashion, digital virtual people and personalized, high-flow and multi-interface virtual applications.

    Around the "Special Project for Optimizing and Upgrading Carrier Scenes", Shanghai will implement three actions. First of all, according to the new version of Shanghai Industrial Map, we will build a "1+9" and "Fashion Nebula" industrial space with the central city as the core and nine surrounding cities such as Pudong and Minhang, and develop three characteristic parks: Oriental Beauty Valley Beauty Park, Xinshishang Urban Industrial Park and Jiangnan Zhizao International Design Port. At the same time, a new integration action of consumption scenes will be implemented to guide enterprises to carry out the integration layout of online and offline consumption scenes. In addition, support the traditional "national tide" to upgrade with new technologies and new ideas.

    In order to build a perfect fashion ecosystem, Shanghai will also introduce and cultivate a group of leading talents in the fashion consumer goods industry, formulate the selection criteria for "Shanghai Fashion Products" and start the certification, and will also publicize and promote the overall image of "Shanghai IP" and the global new product launching place, so as to expand the industrial brand of fashion consumer goods as a whole.

    Author: Zhang Yi

    Editor: Shi Wei

    Source: vision china

    Building a country by culture | What is culture?

    About what is culture, my favorite answer is a four-sentence summary by writer Liang Xiaosheng:

    Cultivation rooted in the heart;

    Consciousness without reminding;

    Freedom based on constraints;

    Kindness for others.

    01

    May Day was brushed aside by the Liu Shishi incident.

    Judy, a flight attendant, told an interesting story about Liu Shishi at the Weibo.

    Judy often meets all kinds of big coffee and stars because she is a flight attendant and serves on the plane. But none of these big coffees and stars left a deep impression on her. Until a few days ago, she met Liu Shishi.

    On that day, Liu Shishi took the first class. When Judy went to tidy up the first class after the plane landed, she was surprised to find that the quilt on Liu Shishi’s seat was neatly folded.

    Judy was shocked at once: "In the past, all the guests in the first class rolled up their quilts and left under their feet. I didn’t expect the poems to be neatly stacked. I was so touched." 」

    People who fly first class are usually people of great status, but you see, there are so few people who fold quilts.Once in a while, the stewardess will be moved for a long time.

    02

    On May Day, I met a wandering singer when I was shopping with my mother.

    After listening to a song, I went over and threw five yuan change into the hat.

    But then, my mother’s behavior surprised me. She went to the hat, crouched down slowly, gently put two coins in the hat, and nodded to the wandering singer with a smile.

    My mother didn’t read much. But this moment: I really lost her too much.

    Comparing these things, I think of a sentence from Bai Yansong:

    "Whether a person has a culture or not does not depend on how high his educational background is. People with academic qualifications do not necessarily have culture; People without education are not necessarily uneducated. 」

    Reading a lot of books, having a high diploma, and having education are sometimes completely different.

    03

    Wu Xiao Xian told another touching story.

    Once, he followed the boss to talk about business, and at lunch, he ordered a table in the hotel. Halfway through the meal, the waiter served a special dish, and the boss said politely, "thank you, we don’t need any more dishes." 」

    The waiter explained, "This dish is free. The boss still smiled and replied: "We don’t want it for free, we can’t eat it, it’s a waste. After the meal, the boss wrapped the leftovers.

    On the way back to the company, the boss drove slowly, as if looking at something. When Wu Xiao Xian was wondering, the boss stopped the car, picked up the packed food, got off the bus and walked over to a beggar, and handed it over with his hands.

    What is culture? This is culture.

    Culture is self-cultivation rooted in the heart.

    04

    I read a story in People’s Daily.

    On the weekend, my nephew followed a Chinese to go fishing in Sydney, Australia.

    Every time you cast a net, you always get something. But every time the net is pulled up, the Chinese always pick it up and throw most of its shrimps and crabs back into the sea.

    His nephew was puzzled: "I finally hit it, why did you throw it back?" The Chinese replied, "Only fish and shrimp that meet the specified size can be caught. 」

    His nephew said, "You are far away on the high seas, and no one can care about you."? The Chinese smiled faintly: "Not everything needs to be reminded and urged by others! 」

    What is culture? This is culture. Culture is consciousness without reminding.

    05

    What is freedom?

    Many people’s understanding is that freedom is to let yourself do what you want freely. But people who think like this don’t know what real freedom is.

    Linda, a Chinese-American writer, wrote a book "Worry in the Deep History", which presents the fact that the United States is not only the freest country in the world, but also the least free country in the world.

    On one occasion, he accompanied his friends from China to visit the Grand Canyon of the United States.

    My friend picked up the coke can and wanted to throw it into the grand canyon: "What a pity not to do something in such a deep canyon! Linda was shocked and quickly stopped: "This is illegal. "The world’s freest America, in fact, is full of freedom:

    It is illegal to hold an open bottle in the street.

    It is illegal for parents to slap their children when they cry.

    Even telling dirty jokes in the office is illegal.

    ….. Many people in China don’t understand why the United States has so many constraints. In fact, it is precisely because of so many constraints that American freedom has been created.

    The philosopher Mill said, "Constraints are the mother of freedom. Personal freedom must be based on not infringing on the freedom of others. 」

    What is culture? This is culture. Culture is freedom based on constraints.

    06

    There was once a wise man who taught his disciples to break glass products and put them into garbage bags, and wrote on them with a pen: "There are glass fragments inside, which are dangerous!" In this way, people who pick up garbage won’t scratch their fingers.

    The mineral water bottles after drinking drinks are also emptied and tightened, which is convenient for waste recyclers to collect.

    You ask me what is culture? This is culture. Culture is kindness for others.

    When you go to the toilet, think of the next person who goes to the toilet.

    When throwing garbage, think of the next garbage collector.

    ……No matter what you do, you must think of the next person.

    07

    Xia Yan, a dramatist, was in great pain before he died. The secretary said, "I’ll call the doctor. "Just as he was about to open the door, Xia Yan opened his eyes and said with difficulty," No, please. Then he passed out and never woke up.

    "Not call, please. "Xia Lao changed a word, but moved a building.

    Do you know how Liang Qichao died?

    He died in a medical accident at Union Medical College Hospital: the doctor cut the left kidney that should have been removed into the right kidney.

    Before he died, Liang Qichao did not curse the doctor, but told his family: "Never tell the media or publish it. The people have just begun to believe in western medicine, and if they know about me, they will inevitably retreat. 」

    Xia Lao Liang Lao is the truly literate person.A true cultural person should have four qualities:

    Cultivation rooted in the heart; Consciousness without reminding; Freedom based on constraints; Kindness for others.

    Think about how often we can have conscious introspection without being reminded by others, and we can think of and help others as much as possible.


    The pictures and texts come from the Internet, and the copyright belongs to the author.

    Delete if there is any copyright contact.

    Precautions for swimming

    Prevention of athlete’s foot The water quality in the public swimming pool may be unclean, and swimming may cause athlete’s foot or cause pinkeye. It is best to take a bath, rinse your mouth and drop eye drops in time after swimming.

    Pay attention to protect your hair. If you use a tight silicone swimming cap when swimming, your hair will be damaged. It is best to wear a swimming cap suitable for your head shape and avoid wearing it for a long time. You can take off your swimming cap and rest after swimming for a while, which can let your hair breathe and help your body recover.

    To prevent cramps and drowning, get ready to go into the water before swimming. First, do warm-up exercises for the body. Second, let the body adapt to the water temperature to avoid cramps when entering the water. In addition, swimming consumes a lot of energy to avoid excessive exercise, and physical exhaustion can also cause drowning.

    People who swim for a long time to prevent otitis media may have otitis media because their ears are soaked in water for a long time or there are many bacteria in the water. In addition, soaking the body in water for a long time is easy to cause discomfort such as arthritis.

    It is best to swim three times a week. If you swim too many times, your body will not get enough rest and recovery, which is not good for your health.